About
MISSION STATEMENT
At Slow Food Central New York, we intend to rediscover the rich and diverse food traditions of our region and ensure that everyone has access to quality and affordable food. We support local growers, food artisans, and purveyors, and empower individuals to become involved in their food from seed to fruit. Understanding that we are all interdependent, we strive to work with sister organizations and cultivate future food leaders whenever possible.
REGIONAL PERSPECTIVES
GEOGRAPHY AND NATURAL FEATURES
The Central New York Convivium is located, appropriately enough, in the center of New York. Syracuse, the cultural hub and main city of this area, has the nickname of “Crossroads of New York State.” This is both due to its geographic central location, as well as it being located at the crossroads of Interstates 90 and 81, two important east-west and north-south corridors respectively. The terrain of Central New York is divided between the northern plains and southern hills. Syracuse is located at the edge of these two features.
The northern plains contain many large wetlands that often are part of bird migration corridors. The two main Central New York lakes, Oneida Lake and Onondaga Lake are both found in this area as well. While near the Finger Lakes, these two lakes were not formed by glacial scouring like their sisters to the west. Unfortunately, the flat nature of this area makes it very easy to develop and is the source of much of the area’s sprawl. Both wetlands and local farms are lost as this area develops.
Crossing both the flat land in the north and the hills to the south is one of the largest collections of drumlins, a unique glacial deposit, in the entire world. Thousands of these spoon-shaped hills have been identified, all aligned parallel in orientation. Many of these drumlins are too steep to build upon and for this reason they are often preserved. In fact, many of Syracuse’s parks are actually drumlin deposits.
The rolling hills south of Syracuse mark the edge of the Finger Lakes region. These hills are predominantly limestone and are of the same geologic formation as the Niagara Escarpment further west. The beautiful waterfalls of Central New York, such as Pratts Falls, Tinker Falls, and Chittenango Falls, exist from this limestone. Many of the small farms in this area are thankfully intact. The rolling hillside and limestone outcrops, while immensely beautiful, make it difficult to run the water and sewage lines for suburban sprawl. It should be noted that Skaneateles and Otisco Lakes, both Finger Lakes, are considered part of the edge of the Central New York region.
One last important feature for this region is the ubiquitous lake-effect snow. During the winter months, cold air out of the Arctic blows south across Lake Ontario. While over the water, the air picks up moisture. As it passes over land into Central New York, the air drops its moisture in the form of snow. Specific “lake-effect” bands of snow are formed, sometimes dropping feet of snow along the band, while leaving nearby areas with little to no snow. During the winter months, the location and angle of these bands are of critical concern to residents. Due to the lake-effect snow, Syracuse holds the title of the snowiest city in the United States with an average annual snowfall of 112 inches.
HUMAN SETTLEMENTS
The Onondaga people are the original known inhabitants of this area. It was on the shores of Onondaga Lake that the Peacemaker brought the five warring nations – Mohawk, Oneida, Onondaga, Cayuga, and Seneca – to bury their weapons of war and found the Haudenosaunee (Iroquois) Confederacy, which still exists today and inspired the United States’ founding fathers such as Benjamin Franklin. The Onondaga Nation’s reservation is located four miles south of Syracuse and is the central fire, or capitol of their traditional government. The Onondaga are also known as the “People of the Hills” for the geography of this area. They remain deeply committed to the ecological health of this region and the planet.
In the 1600’s Father LeMoyne, a Jesuit priest, was one of the earliest Europeans to discover the salt springs along Onondaga Lake and Onondaga Creek. These springs contained more salt in their water than the ocean. Permanent European settlements began in this area during the 1700s, largely focused around boiling the brine down to pure salt. The area continued growing, as salt was a valuable commodity for preserving food before refrigeration and canning became widespread.
The Erie Canal turned Syracuse into a city, and throughout the 1800s it became important for manufacturing. Europeans called Syracuse the Venice of the east for the city grew up around the Erie Canal and its spur the Oswego Canal. Syracuse was also a hotspot for 19th century activism. Not only was it an important stop on the Underground Railroad, but in 1851 Syracusans, as a mob, broke out a captured slave, Jerry, from the city jail. After the “Jerry Rescue,” as it became known, no other slave was ever caught in the city. In addition to being vocal for the abolition of slavery, Syracuse was active with women’s suffrage. In fact, Susan B. Anthony joined the movement during the 1852 Suffrage Convention in Syracuse.
During the 20th century, Syracuse, like many other cities across the United States, suffered from “white flight,” freeways dividing the city, and the dissolution of the city’s manufacturing base. Though there were many large hospitals and universities that grew during this time, much of the urban core experienced disinvestment. However, though Central New York sprawled outward, it never experienced the explosive population growth categorized by many cities in the Sun Belt. The urban area has nearly doubled in size, but the population has remained relatively constant.
As the 21st century forms, the Central New York region is characterized by sprawl to the north of Syracuse, with a largely hollow city. Downtown investment is starting to reoccur, and organizations are forming to counteract the region’s brain drain. The area is also becoming a source of green technology with SUNY ESF (Environmental Science and Forestry) and the NYS Center of Excellence in Environment and Energy Systems pioneering many aspects of this field. While Central New York does have an uphill battle, the region is gaining momentum in its revitalization.
FOOD TRADITIONS
The earliest food traditions of this area can be traced back to the indigenous people of the region. Maize / corn was one of the primary food staples of these people and the Central New York area had its own unique varieties. Dating back to nearly 1000 years ago, the Seneca Hominy Flint Corn can be traced to this region. Some other local varieties include the Tuscarora White flour, Longfellow flint, Mohawk Round Nose, and Seneca Blue Bear Dance. Seneca hominy is considered to be a critically endangered food at this point.
Local varieties of corn were planted with beans and squash and were collectively called the Three Sisters. Corn and beans were planted first, with the beans utilizing the upright-growing corn stalks to provide structure and support. Later in the season, as those two plants matured, squash would grow and cover the ground with its large shady leaves, deterring other plants from growing in the area.
The waters of Central New York also provided much sustenance to local people. The indigenous peoples and early settlers harvested American Eels, Brook Trout and Lake Trout. Large migratory fish, such as the Atlantic Sturgeon and Atlantic Salmon were also found in the local waterways. Lastly, the Onondaga Whitefish was a fish unique to the area. It thrived in the brackish water in Onondaga Lake near the salt springs, and is theorized to have been a unique variety of whitefish. For much of the 1800’s, it was harvested as a delicacy. Only the most exclusive restaurants in New York and Boston would serve the Onondaga Whitefish. Unfortunately, as Syracuse became more of a manufacturing city, pollutants contaminated Onondaga Lake. No one has seen a whitefish in Onondaga Lake since 1897.
There are many other significant regional foods in Central New York. Maple syrup, Cayuga duck and the Oldmixon Free Peach are a few varieties that are identified in Renewing America’s Food Traditions. Strawberries used to be grown prolifically in this area, and strawberry festivals can still be found continuing to this day. Hops were another important commodity and for a time in the early 1900s, Syracuse was considered to be the brewery capital of the country with four large breweries operating within the city. Salt, while not a food that is grown, was also a key food commodity in this region. Without salt, it has been stated that the Erie Canal would have passed Syracuse to the north through easier terrain. Apples are grown in the area, with the famous Cortland emerging from the southern edges of this region. Central New York also contains a rich and proud dairy tradition. Byrne Dairy is the area’s milk conglomerate, coordinating the plethora of small dairy farms in the area, and many local farmers make their own cheeses too.
CONTEMPORARY CONDITIONS
Central New York is currently experiencing an amazing revival of interest in local food production and consumption. Farmers markets are appearing all over the region, with many farmers having to decline attending markets due to too much demand on their time. The Syracuse Regional Market is one of the oldest markets in the area and is open year round due to its large sheds housing farmer and vendor stalls. The region also has a healthy number of community supported agriculture (CSA) organizations ranging from small (20 shares) to large (over 200 shares). The Syracuse Real Food Co-op celebrated its 35th anniversary in 2007. Finally, Syracuse has a grand and quickly expanding tradition of community gardens. These small gardens are providing healthful fresh food to populations who often have trouble accessing such food from nearby retail outlets.
In addition to all of these individual groups, larger organizations supporting these individual efforts have been formed. The Syracuse Hunger Project is looking to help create more urban community gardens and catalog “food deserts” within Syracuse. The Urban Delights program teaches youth about growing food and about running a successful business by involving them in the cultivation and sale of produce. Syracuse Grows is an organization recently formed to act as a voice for the many community gardens across Syracuse. And now Slow Food will hopefully emerge in Central New York to partner with many of these empowering organizations.
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